Siem Reap.......

So, a few days out of the routine of eat, sleep, ride repeat. Back in tourist central; but tourists are few and far between. Most of the foreigners here (at least that I've spoken to) are expats: an exotic menagerie of misfits, chancers, deadbeats and alcoholics. I really must start drinking in better quality bars.........

Had an abortive ride out to see Tonle Sap, the massive lake in the middle of Cambodia. I was stopped a couple of kms or so from the lake to be told I couldn't ride the rest of the way as the road was too dangerous and flooded (despite the 8 year old kids riding 5 up on scooters sailing past). I would have to take the boat the rest of the way, it would only cost me $25 (gawd bless 'em for trying!!).  Lake unseen, a quick U-turn and I was headed back to Siem Reap to buy my day pass for the Angkor Wat complex. Currently doing a 2 day pass for the price of a 1 day. All I need to do is get up early enough to use it.

Two full days of temple hopping, the "big" and "little loops" and Banterei Srei. Decided to hire a tuk tuk for the duration; partly so I didn't have to carry my lid and worry about the bike safety while in the temples, but also as I felt compelled to try and help the local economy a bit (other than the bars...!) Covid has decimated the tourist industry here.

 So many temples, but the real standout was Ta Phrom (the "tomb raider" temple). Beautiful, with the jungle noises hanging in the air and the trees devouring the ancient stone like a relentless alien life form.

Easy to get trapped in Siem Reap; an abundance of sights to see and bars to try. But, I need to tear myself away; this is a bike trip after all.

Soundtrack: Tool - "Sober"

Temples and tribulations.....

Well rested and refreshed (but with some seriously odd dreams and still no desire for food), I headed out early for a better vantage point over the Mekong. In this area, on the Laos side, it is apparently well set up for tourists with accommodation, bars and restaurants aplenty, not so the Cambodian side. Beautiful though and good to see it before it becomes awash with the tourist amenities I deplore (but also crave!!)

Then it was back on the dirt roads for a while before continuing west for some culture. I had intended to visit the Preah Vihear temple the following day but I'd made good time. As I've got more used to the riding conditions and the idiosyncrasies of the Baja, I'm covering more ground in less time. So a chance to stretch my legs and see the disputed temple.

Both the Thais and Cambodians lay claim to this site and conflict between the 2 nations has erupted here in the past over who owns it. Peaceful now though and a very worthwhile visit. The twisty, alpine like road up to the temple perched on the cliff top is worth the entrance money alone (US€10). The temple is around 1000 years old (I think?) and is largely in a state of ruin although the site is well looked after and their are ongoing efforts to preserve it.

Superb views back over into the flat lands of Cambodia at the back of the temple.

Spent the night in Sra-aem then headed out early ish for Siem Reap. The bike was running a bit odd, stuttering at low revs; feels like a fuelling issue; could be the carb., could be the throttle cable needs adjusting, clogged air filter, spark plug(?). Runs fine when cruising at speed, but drop the revs and drop a gear and it just isn't quite right. I really should have more mechanical knowledge. Oh well. Otherwise an uneventful run. The white line fever taking hold: the destination becoming the focus rather than the ride. Bad dog.

Once in Siem Reap, I took the bike to Mainteance Garage and Services on Concrete Drain Rd. (how do they think up these exotic names??). The place is run by a French guy with local mechanics. Turned out to be dirt clogging the carburetor (I think?); all cleaned out and with an extra in line fuel filter installed, bike was as good as new. The guy even commented on how good the engine was considering the age of the bike. For $15 (including oiling and adjusting the chain; I really should have brought at least the basic tools!) an absolute bargain. Highly recommended place.

I was last in Siem Reap too many years ago to remember exactly; it is BIG now. I don't recognize anything. I recall it being relatively small and "quaint", with a few restaurants/bars dotted around and a really relaxed, quiet atmosphere. I don't want to be "that guy" who says "I remember when this was all fields...". But....... It is still quiet, this time due to Covid (many, many places appear to have closed down; an all to obvious sign of the economic devastation of the pandemic). Fully open, it looks like it could be the Cambodian Khao San Road (.....oh....the horror.....!!!). Industrial scale nightlife.

Anyway, a few days R&R in Siem Reap; time to play tourist for a while (keeping my alter ago as intrepid world traveller adventurer under wraps........if the sarcasm isn't obvious, it IS implied).

Soundtrack: Mayhem - "Funeral Fog"

Get your kicks....on route 76....

Heading out of town with a gale blowing and dark clouds looming to the north where I was headed. Decided to take a detour to see the BouSra waterfall; good move. A nice twisty road to get there and a surprisingly impressive set of waterfalls. The clouds were dissipating too.

So, tourist box ticked, I headed back to route 76 to continue the journey up to Ban Lung. The road continued where it left off the previous day, the bike was happy. The BMW GS crew passed me again coming the opposite direction; one of them even returned my wave!!

An enjoyable ride, route 76 is a gem (especially for this corner of South East Asia), good surface, nice twisties (more so further south) and very little traffic. Quite remote as I would often spend tens of miles seeing no buildings, people or traffic. I was having so much fun that I'd not noticed how throttle happy I'd become; the bike sputtering to an unexpected halt. I'd run the tank dry; but the Baja was obviously thanking me for letting her loose on the 76 that she rolled to a petrol station with the last fumes left. Lucky.

Not so lucky, as Banlung hoved into view.  I'm probably staying in the wrong area, because it is a bit run down and dull. The guesthouse I researched on the web which had rave reviews is actually a bit grim and not the cleanest. The final straw was the key broke as I tried to lock my door. Being very British, I hate complaining,  but dirty room, broken key and no loo seat, I complained and was moved to a better room. Monorom was nice, I should have spent an extra day there. Oh well.

Made the mistake of spending the evening drinking Gansberg beer. This is advertised everywhere (and I mean EVERYWHERE!) in Cambodia, but this was the first time I'd actually seen it. This was to be Ban Lung's revenge for my unfavourable review.

It reappeared during the night, (what is the Cambodian version of Delhi belly?). So, a dilemma, do I want to spend another day in Ban Lung? (no), am I fit to ride? (debatable). A quick immodium and with clenched cheeks, I got on the bike and headed west.  I was probably more dehydrated than I realised and I didn't eat or even have any appetite for the next 48 hours. But I felt fine on the bike; so I rolled through the burning landscape (I presume they are intended rather than wild fires??). 

I crossed back across the Mekong again, before cutting north on a dirt road towards the Laos border. This was much more the road of my imagination when I was planning this trip.

Ended up just north of Preah Romkel, Laos visible across the Mekong. Very remote area, no wifi (eek!) and no English spoken. Got there early and pretty much slept most of the next 18 hours. Still no appetite, but otherwise OK.

Soundtrack: Faithless - "Woozy"

The road.......

After a hearty breakfast and messing around getting the bike loaded up (an ongoing process which needs refining......I've got too much stuff!), I finally set off a little before noon. The advantage of this was the relatively light traffic at that time which gave me chance to get used to the driving style here. Which is best described as "chaotic", but it seems to work.

After getting out of town, I followed what passes for a motorway for a while before turning off to follow the smaller roads which curve along with the Mekong to Kampong Cham. The road condition so far has been much better than expected. I have a memory (probably distorted) of taking the road from Siem Reap to the Thai border at Poipet many, many years ago and it was a hard packed dirt road. Did I imagine that? Or am I just very old? Anyway, I sure there are poor roads to come.

Just a few hours, a short days ride to acclimatise. But it was fun, especially on the smaller local roads where everyday life unfolds before you like a National Geographic documentary. 

Kampong Cham on the banks of the Mekong, seems a nice enough place; had a wander around town. Went to see the famous bamboo bridget (now a tourist attraction rather than a working bridge; foot traffic only). Just a one night stop before heading East towards Vietnam (although I cannot enter there).

Soundtrack: RDF/Military Surplus - "Firepower"

Second day on the road started with a bridge over the Mekong, leaving the river behind as I headed East. Passing rubber tree plantations in the heat and dust, the bike plodded along, rarely breaking 60kph as we rolled through the flat landscape. The occasional bend in the road or small incline doing little to quicken the pulse (the crazy drivers did that!). 

A squadron of BMW 1200GS thundered past in tight formation at one point, silver boxes glistening in the sun. Must have been on a bombing raid somewhere. I thought about trying to keep up for a nanosecond before realising that if I did catch up, I'd have to talk to them. Umm, no thanks.

Once beyond O-Am for the 60 or so km to Sen Monorom the road suddenly began to dip and wheel up and down and around the increasing hills. The baja suddenly started straining at the leash like a puppy with a new ball. The bike was transformed, the old dog still knew a few tricks.

Time for some fun!

All too soon, the town appeared round a bend, and we pulled into a guesthouse, the Baja wagging it's tail contentedly.  Sen Monorom: I guess it must be pretty high up, as there is almost a chill in the air and a wind is blowing (just to remind of my wind-burned cheeks from today's ride). Only about 160 miles ridden today, but 6 hours on the road. I think I wouldn't want to do more miles in these conditions; it isn't a race after all.

Soundtrack: Stuart A Staples - "There is a path"

The bike.......

After sleeping most of the afternoon, I went to the first of the bike rental places on my shortlist (Victory MotorBike) to check out potential rides. No CRF250 available, but they had a nice old Honda XR250 Baja. It has seen better days, but with a new chain and sprockets, new brake pads and decent tyres, it wasn't half bad; and after a brief test ride, it seems to run OK. It's an old school carb bike, not fuel injected (HEY!! Wake up at the back, this is education!).

I tried one other rental place, but in my heart I had already settled on the Baja. After some friendly negotiations with Johnny (the owner, who seemed affable enough, but since when have I been a good judge of character??), it works out at US$16 a day. Think it is a decent enough price, as long as it gets me round.

As usual, I then went out to drink far too much in an attempt to kill the jet lag. Woke up at 2 the following afternoon with a sore head; so I guess it worked! Went back to Victory to sort out the paperwork for the bike. I picked up the bike the next day, so, road trip🤘🏍🤘.......

Some tedious but necessary admin to do first though. I thought my visa was for 30 days, but when they stamped me into the country on the 31st Jan, they gave me 29 days ("1 month".....damn you February with your 28 days!!!!) So I am trying to change my plane ticket which I'd booked for the day after my visa runs out. Also got to suss a PCR test before I can leave the country, which needs booking 2 weeks in advance (according to the interwebs). Also, Singapore airlines are being difficult about changing my ticket dates, so I've applied for the Thai "test & go" pass and will try to go direct from Phnom Penh to Bangkok, avoiding Singapore altogether for the time being.

Soundtrack: Sleaford Mods - "Routine Dean" 

The arrival....

The flight wasn't bad at all; one of the emptiest I've ever been on. Nobody else within 5 metres of me. Nice.

Weird transit in Singapore; Covid is obviously taken far more seriously in this part of the world than back home. Passing the departure gate for a flight to Chongqing (China) on the way to my connection: the passengers were all in full PPE, the total body disposable white paper(?) suit, right down to the disposable plastic coverings for their shoes. Covid: it ain't over folks! At least for the Chinese where the pandemic began and, at this rate, where it will end.

The Singapore to PP flight was surprisingly busy, I was fortunate to have one of the few empty seats on the plane next to me, but only a short-ish hop to Cambodia.

Getting more and more nervous as I get closer to Cambodia; will all my papers be in order? Will they let me in?............well, YES! Typically South-East Asian organized chaos to get through the formalities at border control: various forms to be filled in, questions answered and documents checked. Finally, a lateral flow test before I could leave the airport. Apart from the guy shoving the cotton bud so far up my nose I think he wanted a sample of brain tissue....it was all OK and pretty quick. Out of the airport and in a tuk tuk heading into town in only a little over an hour after landing. Happy days!

As I got to my hotel earlier than anticipated, the room wasn't ready. So a wander for some food was the first order of business. The clock just ticked over 11am, and I needed to quell the fire of the spicy food I had just eaten. So a beer was in order.....50p.....jaysus, this could get messy!

Soundtrack: Black Sabbath - "Paranoid"