Wednesday, February 9, 2022

Temples and tribulations.....

Well rested and refreshed (but with some seriously odd dreams and still no desire for food), I headed out early for a better vantage point over the Mekong. In this area, on the Laos side, it is apparently well set up for tourists with accommodation, bars and restaurants aplenty, not so the Cambodian side. Beautiful though and good to see it before it becomes awash with the tourist amenities I deplore (but also crave!!)



Then it was back on the dirt roads for a while before continuing west for some culture. I had intended to visit the Preah Vihear temple the following day but I'd made good time. As I've got more used to the riding conditions and the idiosyncrasies of the Baja, I'm covering more ground in less time. So a chance to stretch my legs and see the disputed temple.



Both the Thais and Cambodians lay claim to this site and conflict between the 2 nations has erupted here in the past over who owns it. Peaceful now though and a very worthwhile visit. The twisty, alpine like road up to the temple perched on the cliff top is worth the entrance money alone (US€10). The temple is around 1000 years old (I think?) and is largely in a state of ruin although the site is well looked after and their are ongoing efforts to preserve it.







Superb views back over into the flat lands of Cambodia at the back of the temple.




Spent the night in Sra-aem then headed out early ish for Siem Reap. The bike was running a bit odd, stuttering at low revs; feels like a fuelling issue; could be the carb., could be the throttle cable needs adjusting, clogged air filter, spark plug(?). Runs fine when cruising at speed, but drop the revs and drop a gear and it just isn't quite right. I really should have more mechanical knowledge. Oh well. Otherwise an uneventful run. The white line fever taking hold: the destination becoming the focus rather than the ride. Bad dog.

Once in Siem Reap, I took the bike to Mainteance Garage and Services on Concrete Drain Rd. (how do they think up these exotic names??). The place is run by a French guy with local mechanics. Turned out to be dirt clogging the carburetor (I think?); all cleaned out and with an extra in line fuel filter installed, bike was as good as new. The guy even commented on how good the engine was considering the age of the bike. For $15 (including oiling and adjusting the chain; I really should have brought at least the basic tools!) an absolute bargain. Highly recommended place.



I was last in Siem Reap too many years ago to remember exactly; it is BIG now. I don't recognize anything. I recall it being relatively small and "quaint", with a few restaurants/bars dotted around and a really relaxed, quiet atmosphere. I don't want to be "that guy" who says "I remember when this was all fields...". But....... It is still quiet, this time due to Covid (many, many places appear to have closed down; an all to obvious sign of the economic devastation of the pandemic). Fully open, it looks like it could be the Cambodian Khao San Road (.....oh....the horror.....!!!). Industrial scale nightlife.

Anyway, a few days R&R in Siem Reap; time to play tourist for a while (keeping my alter ago as intrepid world traveller adventurer under wraps........if the sarcasm isn't obvious, it IS implied).

Soundtrack: Mayhem - "Funeral Fog"

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