Sihanoukville, China's southernmost city. Am I still in Cambodia?? Did I take a wrong turn somewhere and end up in Yunnan? Damn GPS!
Chinaville, errrr, I mean Sihanoukville, is a concrete jungle of half finished high rises and casinos. Any soul or character the place may once of had has been buried under a tidal wave of Chinese "development". I even had to prove my vaccination status before they would let me into the hotel; first and only time this was required in Cambodia.
Met a mad Mancunian in a bar who was itching for a fight with someone; didn't seem to matter who or why. He kept on raving about how everybody there hated him; I could see why, he was very easy to hate. I made a tactical withdrawal before it got ugly. The mad manc, in a rare lucid moment warned me of the condition of the road to Kampot; so wasn't all bad. But again, I really need to start drinking in better quality bars.
Next stop: Kampot. The first stretch of road leaving Chinatown was OK, I needed petrol and some air in my front tyre then it was smooth riding up to where the road to Kampot branched off route 4. There the road immediately turned to broken tarmac, potholes and dust. It was easier to ride on the narrow dirt verge than the road itself; unfortunately, all the 4 wheelers decided to hug this line as well. Slow and dusty going (as mad Manc had said). I was getting used to this kind of surface now, so it wasn't a problem. The Baja seems to like these kinds of surface.
The road improved the further east it went. Then the turn off to Bokor Mountain arrived; there was a Covid vaccination status check at the start of the road (?); so I showed them my NHS app, and up I went. Beautiful, twisty road past the monkeys and up to the mists swirling near the top. A few odd buildings up there (the history of which I know nothing) and no view because of the low mist. But it was all about riding up and down that road; always happier when on the bike. Well worth it.
Then on to Kampot itself and my guesthouse by the river. Nice place, lots of bars and lots more interesting expats (for "interesting " read "barking mad"). It must be the relentless heat or the cheap beer, or the easily available weed, but some serious odd people about. I was cornered in one bar by a guy who claimed his Filipino girlfriend (who worked for interpol....no less!) had just messaged him to warn him that there was a hit out on him. Uh yeah. OK mate. Enjoy your night......
A couple of days kicking back and relaxing here, including a ride out to Kep, where Cambodians go to the beach. They don't bother with swimming costumes, just wander into the sea in whatever they happen to have on: jeans, dresses, cardigans, you name it.
The time arrived to return to Phnom Penh and close the loop around Cambodia. Perfect tarmac all the way to the capital, easy ride. But then I hit the city and the fun started....total chaos: bikes, cars, lorries and buses coming at you from all angles. The bikes swarming around the 4 wheelers like a shoal of piranhas, eating up every available inch of empty road. Enormous fun.....embrace the chaos!!
Bike returned and deposit reclaimed. A 2500km loop around Cambodia. The Honda XR 250 Baja: it got me round; had a few quirks and issues, but overall a very capable little bike. It handled the rough stuff over the Cardamom mountains; flattering my appalling off road abilities. Old tech, easy to fix. Would I use the same bike again? Sure, but only if a CRF250/300 wasn't available. I like fuel injection!
So, a few days in Phnom Penh to sort out the paperwork to gain entry to Thailand. Just in time for the 6 nations weekend. Although as it is Scotland vs. France, I may have to resort to strong drink.
Soundtrack: Ozzy Osbourne - "Crazy Train"
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